THE GILES EMPIRE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Last week saw the launch of the latest 'Gold by Giles Deacon' collection for New Look, and the man himself was at the fashion retailer's HQ to have tea, toast and a chat.

In the studio where the magic happens

(I say this very casually, because uber professionals like the Fash Ed have been meeting designers like Giles for years. I on the other hand, was extremely excited to be in the presence of such greatness!)

Thankfully, Giles Deacon is perhaps the friendliest, most down-to-earth designer working today, and he was more than happy to talk about his future with New Look, that Ungaro job and life as a creative person in 2010.

Here is what Giles had to say...

On the latest Gold by Giles Deacon collection:

"I design for the New Look girl. She is outgoing, individual, and knows her stuff when it comes to fashion. The kind of girl who works hard but then loves getting dressed up and looking great at the weekend. We put as much effort into both the main line and this collection, because they both have their own challenges. I want the New Look collection to be the best that it can be within the constraints set - we spend a long time on the fabric and fit. In fact, we probably do as many fittings for this collection as we do for Giles. I also look at how it works within the rest of the New Look range, trying to make sure it is really, really good.  

The dresses currently in store. 

On whether designer/high street collaborations are helping or damaging the UK fashion industry:

 "They are totally, completely helping. Not just from a business point of view, although the money is an important aspect [Giles is famously honest about the fact that his high street collaboration does help to fund his main line work]. Collaborations are a way of showing another side to your work, but crucially they make good design accessible to all. I firmly believe in the democracy of design. "

On his future with New Look:

"The collections are going from strength to strength and we will definitely be involved over the next two years at least."

The Christmas dresses, for release later in the year.

On the pressure of taking on a third collection, [his forthcoming debut for Ungaro] and managing the workload:

"I am aware of the pressure, but I honestly try not to think about it. I never want to feel stressed or out of control, which is why I am very organised about my work. I have an excellent team who liase between Milan, Paris and my studio here, sorting out the logistics so that I can focus - the more organised everything is, the more creative I can be. I have to set briefs and allocate work and I don't have time for things not to be done -  not that I am a control freak! I have a really good team."

On his first collection for Ungaro:

"It's a big, big range, totally separate from my own.  But we have worked very hard on it. It is always exciting to see how a collection is going to be recieved by the press and the stores, and this is no exception."

Giles graduated in 1992, coincidentally the last time the country was in a major recession. I asked him how he thought the industry has changed, and the advice he would give to those beginning their fashion careers:

"I am fascinated by technological advances, in all aspects of design, not just fashion. It is the new ideas, technology and ways of working that inspire me today, and I am always looking to embrace that.

It was hard, if not harder when I graduated as it is now. But I realised if you want to follow a creative career, in whatever discipline, you have to stick at it and get a solid work ethic in place. It's all about stability, longevity and quality of work. Things will happen, maybe not straight away, but they will, so you have to keep at it. If there is one thing I hate more than anything, it is wasted talent."

And finally, on his dream collaboration:

"Weirdly, I am obsessed with clips of 1970's hot air balloon conventions on the internet. The crazy races where all the balloons are different shapes and colours. I would love to design my own Giles balloon one day."

Now that is a sight we would love to see... 

The current collection is in store now, with special Christmas dresses being added in early November. Items range from £40-£60.

SHOP THE COLLECTION GOLD BY GILES COLLECTION HERE!

Images: Rex, New Look

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LIVING ON A KNIFE EDGE

Posted By: Guest Blogger, George Langford (Glitterbird)

Taylor Momsen. Gossip Girl starlet, wannabe rock chick and...thug? Her interview in Thursday's Metro saw yet another example of what happens when fame, fortune and fashion happen to someone who just isn't ready to be a role model. For some unknown reason, the journalist thought it would be a bright idea to begin the article with this choice quote:

"I have a knife collection...my favourite's my switchblade." Grrrreat! One of the world's hottest teen stars declares her passion for lethal weapons. She is setting a fabulous example to all her devoted fans, who will no doubt be abandoning their Hannah Montana DVDs and rushing out to purchase their very own blade as we speak. Flicking the knife is 'relaxing', apparently...not that I would know, considering a cup of tea usually suffices in times of crisis. Obviously, I don't have to deal with the pressure of international stardom, pots of money and designer freebies on tap, but aw shucks, life must be hard for this 16 year old actress. Perhaps Momsen thinks that this new revelation about her already 'alternative' lifestyle will add to her rawk credibility as she forges a musical career with her band Pretty Reckless. Whatever the reason, it was pretty stupid to mention it to a journalist and for said journalist to go on ahead and tell the world.

Before I go any further, let me declare myself as a fully fledged Gossip Girl obsessive - I love the show, even if it is becoming more and more 'Dynasty set on the Upper East Side'. Momsen, and her on screen alter ego Jenny Humprey have experienced a significant style evolution recently, going from Brooklyn School Girl to Park Avenue Punk (sound like a paradox? It's the same as any other emo/goth look, just with more designer labels.) I like the way she is not afraid to wear whatever she likes, regardless of trends or even the time of day. Her platinum hair and penchant for black leather and lace, combined with the ability to pull off some edgy evening looks, have led to her new status as a style icon. New Look have even made Momsen the face of their latest collection, although it remains to be seen whether her moody eyes will still be staring out of every shop window by the weekend. It's the Peaches Geldof-Ultimo fall out, mark II.

Even though I appreciate Jenny's alternative appearance, if the girl uses much more black eyeshadow I fear she will be fighting off the unwanted sexual advances of a panda. Momsen and 'Little J' are starting to merge into the same person, as the actress is now frequently seen out and about in her uniform of black stockings, nightie and leather jacket (just don't mention Courtney Love!) Because, y'know, music is her life now, Momsen doesn't feel the need to tone down her look for the sake of her teenage fans. Yes, she has the figure to pull it off, but she is unaware that she is influencing an army of identikit 'prostitots' (thanks, Perez Hilton) not all of which have a burly bodyguard to protect them from the lecherous responses this outfit is guaranteed to provoke.

I think she looks hot, really I do, but there is a line, and switchblades are well and truly over it. I respect Momsen for attempting to distinguish herself from the rest of her Gossip Girl counterparts, but there are better ways to do that than by collecting knives. At least if she wants to indulge her desire for sharp objects, someone please tell the girl not to shout about it!

GL
www.glitterbird.blogspot.com

(Image: Rex Features)

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THERES SOMETHING ABOUT 1962

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Jean Shrimpton in an Italian Vogue edition from 1962

At the end of the shows I was busy compiling my trend report as usual when the 60's trend came up on my radar. It was done best at the Parisian House of Rochas, designed by Marco Zanini, but  Balenciaga, Prada and Giles had a go too. It got me to wondering what exact moment of the 1960's had inspired the look, and mulled over who the muse might be. Jean Shrimpton? Jackie Kennedy? Brigitte Bardot? None of them felt right and I couldn't pin it down. It's here I have to hand it to the British High Street design teams and buyers. They know how to spin a trend and give it the shape they want for their customer base. On the way they sometimes manage make a trend ten times better than it seemed on the catwalk.

The 60's trend is a case in point. My Eureka moment hit at Urban Outfitters when I became enthralled by their Cambridge Satchel link-up (below), the shearling lined hiking bootees, the Harris tweed satchel collaboration, and the cute way they paired flecky grandad cardigans, plaid shirts, kilts, and yet more satchels. It was then I knew who the muse was for this whole darn trend... here she is...

Carey Mulligan just before she meets her man in An Education, set in 1962 

Cambridge Satchel

 

 

Urban Outfitters gets inspiration from Carey Mulligan in An Education and the English university style of the early 60's

New Look AW10

TopShop AW10

Lynn Barber: the real thing. I LOVE this book.

Of course, the film is set in 1962. Turns out this is the same year Tom Ford's film A Single Man is set. This put me on a trail for other significant cultural events from 1962 and following a a sixty minute journey through the Web I feel totally inspired.

Don't so many guys have this look today? Julieanne Moore could make each Rochas AW10 look her own.

A FEW THINGS OTHER THINGS ABOUT 1962:

YSL launches

The beautiful Yves Saint Laurent in 1962

Bob Dylan first album

 Francoise Hardy is (in my opinion) the sexiest woman in the world in 1962

These photgraphs are taken:

Photo credits: FEAL, Photobucket

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