ADVENT DAY 4: OPEN THE DOOR ON THE WORLD OF CARINE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Carine's Irreverent £42 at Amazon

It's the fashion book of the year from former French Vogue Editor Carine Roitfeld. This tome is full of fabulous photos, anecdotes and mementoes from her career thus far as well as intimate pictures with her family and friends. We think anybody who loves fashion would regret not having this close to hand.

'Fashion is all about happiness. It's fun. It's important. But it's not medicine' Donatella Versace

Lady Gaga's new video is so many things, on so many levels... but she does confirm that 'mint green is gonna be huge next season'... Her 13-minute long Marry The Night Video really needs a Sunday-like time void to be properly viewed. 

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THE WEEK IN FASHION: 14th-18th NOVEMBER

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's a case of fashion mirroring life this week as we bring you news of births and deaths and, er, rebirths. It's been pretty dramatic actually.

Tom Ford SS12

American Vogue has just released the very first pictures of Tom Ford's SS12 collection (photographed by the multitalented Mr Ford himself). The former Gucci designer had decreed that the designs he showcased in a highly exclusive catwalk show should not be seen until now to avoid people becoming bored of them before they were available to buy. However, he suffered something of a backlash when fashion editors including The Guardian's Jess Cartner-Morley and Le Figaro's Virginie Mouzat wrote negative reviews not only of the clothes but also of that approach to showing. Sarah Mower's interview with Ford, which is posted beneath the pictures, reveals that Ford will revert to intimate showroom presentations for his next collection, emphasising the necessity to explain each look in detail. Furthermore, Ford claims that he designs in response to what his customers want, hence all the flounced mini dresses. Now that we can see for ourselves, what are your thoughst?

Tom Ford SS12

Tom Ford SS12 (All images from American Vogue)

Evelyn, her husband Leonard and Estée (from WWD)

On Sunday, the sad news arrived that Evelyn Lauder, daughter in law of Estée, had died at the age of 75 from Ovarian Cancer, having suffered Breast Cancer in the past. Evelyn not only played an instrumental role in growing Estée Lauder from a small family business into one of the world's biggest beauty companies but she also made a profound contribution to raising awareness and funds for Breast Cancer Research. In 1989, she was diagnosed with the disease and went on to spearhead the Pink Ribbon campaign which has now become a widely recognised symbol of support. The fact that Evelyn's childhood was marred by her family's escape from Nazi-occupied Europe only makes her lifetime achievements more incredible. The New York Times' obituary has some fascinating insights into Evelyn's life.

The Lauder family. Evelyn is seated, hugged by her son. Estée is in the white hat (from WWD)

In happier news, it's time to congratulate Julia Restoin Roitfeld, daughter of Carine, who's expecting her first baby. Somehow we can't imagine Carine sitting down to knit booties or change a nappy quite yet but I think we can safely say that this could be the best dressed grandchild on the planet once it arrives in May. A day out with Grandma Roitfeld could involve anything from sitting FROW at fashion week to crawling around on a Chanel shoot... Lucky babes!

Julia with boyfriend and baby daddy, Robert Konjic (image from thevoguediaries.com)

Versace Couture SS09 (images from audreysworld.blogspot.com)

 This week has, let's admit it, been rather dominated by the launch of Versace's collection for H&M. Just a couple of days before the brand went high street, it was announced that they would be swinging right back the other way in January with the re-introduction of a couture show. It's set to take place on January 23rd, the first day of the couture week. WWD points out that Versace has still been doing couture during its seven year absence from the schedule, opting to keep to more discreet appointments. I guess now that the world is buzzing with Versace frenzy, it's a good time to capitalise on keeping up the momentum. I can't imagine we'll see the queues we saw yesterday though!

Versace Couture SS09

Marc Jacobs' SS12 London press day had to be cancelled yesterday after the collection was stolen during its journey from Paris. Some have pointed the finger at counterfeiters who might be out to copy the collection.  Or could it be a sneaky ploy by Dior HQ to harangue Jacobs into becoming their Head Designer? Whoever the culprits are, one thing's for sure- they will be easily identified by their translucent flapper dresses and general 'thirties meets future' vibe. No word of a reward for information as yet...

Missing: Have you seen this Marc Jacobs SS12? (Image from www.lloyd-evans.com)

The best ad campaigns are the ones which get everyone talking; Benetton have certainly achieved that this week with their latest set of images which depict world-famous figures kissing one another. If you can see the lighter side of the world's current woes then these are very entertaining. However, the Vatican were not in a humorous mood about the image which shows the Pope in embrace with Mohammed Ahmed al-Tayeb, an Egyptian Grand Sheik. The Guardian reports that Fr Federico Lombardi said: "We must express the firmest protest for this absolutely unacceptable use of the image of the Holy Father, manipulated and exploited in a publicity campaign with commercial ends. This shows a grave lack of respect for the pope, an offence to the feelings of believers, a clear demonstration of how publicity can violate the basic rules of respect for people by attracting attention with provocation." There is a deeper message to Benetton's images though; they support Unhate which is campaigning for a world free from hate culture, what's to object to about that?

The Pope with Mohammed Ahmed al-Tayeb

Angela Merkel and Nicholas Sarcozy get cosy (Images from dailymail.co.uk)

 On Sunday, the surprise news emerged that Tamara Mellon would be leaving her role at Jimmy Choo, the company she has ushered from small time cobbler to one of the world's best known accessories brands. On Sunday evening, there was an impeccably timed advert for Jimmy Choo perfume during X Factor which starred Mellon herself. A firm reminder to those in the industry that she knows exactly how to play the game. Speculation that Mellon will be launching her own name brand before too long is already mounting. The fashion world's eyes are sure to be closely watching how Jimmy Choo and Tamara Mellon get on without one another. Lisa Armstrong is sure that we should expect plenty more from Mellon...

Mellon starring in Jimmy Choo's perfume campaign (image from nytimes.com)

In case you hadn't noticed, Lady Gaga has been in the UK this week and while she's here she has been taking advantage of the opportunity to showcase designs by some of London's finest. It must have been love at first sight for Gaga and the Roksanda Ilincic dress which she was seen out and about in just an hour after it was sent to her on Wednesday! She's also worn two outfits from Osman Yousefzada's SS12 collection and a look from Simone Rocha's first standalone collection which comprised a beautiful array of trapped lace pieces. It looks like Gaga has developed her look recently after parting from her long time stylist and collaborator Laurieann Gibson earlier this month. Here at FEAL, we're loving the Gaga London look, long may it continue!

Gaga in Simone Rocha (image from graziadaily.co.uk)

In Osman (image from telegraph.co.uk)

In Roksanda Ilincic (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Sample Sale Alert! Next Friday 25th November, Mawi jewellers will be having a massive sample sale with up to 80% off usual prices. It'll be at MAWI STUDIO, 2, Nimrod Passage, London. N1 4BU from 9am to 8pm. Just in time for Christmas!

This necklace will be reduced from £810 to £300

This L'Wren Scott dress is $999 from $2145; in ££ that's about £500.... not bad. Gilt.com

Last night the FashEd had dinner with Kevin Ryan and Alexandra Wilkis Wilson the founder and co-founder of the hugely successful American flash sale site gilt.com at the Savoy. The occasion was the firm making its discounted stock available for UK and European shipping for the first time. Think of the site as TK Maxx online, but whereas TK Maxx run their shops with a less is more approach, Gilt.com is a slick package, and trying to make discounted luxury feel sexy and special.


Joining the site is free, and once a UK member you can log on every day at 5pm to gain access to 20 flash sales. What fun. Today’s bargains come from, among others, L’Wren Scott. You have to but in $$ but with the current exchange rate, this is a good thing! We would encourage you to join now at Gilt.com.

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THE WEEK IN FASHION: OCTOBER 31st- NOVEMBER 4th

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Another week has gone by in the wonderful world of fashion, so here are all the stories which have caught our eye this weeek...

Tate Liverpool's Alice in Wonderland exhibition begins today and that theme seems to fit in perfectly with some of SS12's whimsical, back to childhood themes- think Christopher Kane's flower sticker coats and Meadham Kirchhoff's sugar sweet homage to girlishness.  But it seems that the exhibition offers a truly in-depth look at all the aspects of Alice's Adventures which have caused so much debate for so many years- What were Carroll's true motives? How are we to read into certain elements of the plot? If we happen to be anywhere up North before 29th January then we will definitely be dropping in for a look around. If you manage to go, do let us know how it was for you.

Alice Pleasance Liddell, the little girl said to have inspired Carrol's book. This is a picture he took in 1859, from amadelio.org

The story of the House of Fabergé is inextricably linked with the History of Europe. In 1917, Peter Carl Fabergé and his family were forced to abandon their business to flee from the Bolshevik uprising. In the ensuing events, they lost the rights to use the name upon which they had built their fortune, creating bejewelled eggs for some of the most prestgious families in Europe and Russia. However in October 2007, the House and the family were reunited once more. They are now making jewellery which heavily references the classic Fabergé with its incredible detail and use of the most intricate of techniques. Now, Mario Testino has worked alongside Carine Roitfeld, producer Camilla Johnson-Hill and Fabergé's Creative Director Katharina Flohr to create the house's first advertising campaign. Essentially, this is the tale of the most old school of brands reinventing itself for today. We might think of Fabergéas something we would see in a mueseum or a book, but maybe we should be prepared for those preconceptions to be thwarted. Their model is Bee Gee- I had to read that detail several times, I was thinking that I was about to see Maurice Gibb in an egg pendant- who apprently encompasses the Russia/ Europe relationship which Fabergé wants to enhance. If they have the Carine/ Mario power team on board, they could hardly fail, could they?

Bee Gee, decked out in jewels befitting of a Russian Grand Duchess, or Oligarch's wife

The BFC showrooms have continued their world tour, which have so far seen British designers exhibiting their SS12 colllections in Paris, LA and New York, in Hong Kong this week. They received a warm welcome from the Chinese fashion industry with Angelica Cheung, Editor of Vogue China, hosting a tea for them. Lane Crawford, one of Hong Kong's biggest department stores, also put on an in-store event followed by a big party in Victoria Harbour. All this seems proof that everywhere in the world right now, there is a buzz about British desingers and the BFC is doing a very good job of capitalising on that. Louise Gray told Vogue "It was great - I got some brilliant new stockists over there"- job done.

We can see why Louise Gray went down a treat in Hong Kong (image from Vogue.co.uk)

 We're feeling an all-new Manolo moment coming on, so the news that Blahnik is to receive the first ever lifetime achievement award at the 25th Footwear News Achievement Awards makes perfect sense. When he won Designer of the Year in the same ceremony in 1992, he said '“I do what I do and that’s it. It’s nice I make people happy. If I only do that in my life, it’s great, even if it is only a stupid pair of pumps.” Excellent news then, that Manolo will be recognised for his success in maintaining that exact aim- we take our Mary Janes off to you, Mr Blahnik!

Manolo looking extremely dapper (image from vogue.it)

 Never ones to pass up the opportunity to devour anything Chanel related, we are very excited about Karl Lagerfeld's forthcoming book which pays tribute to the Chanel tweed jacket. Carine Roitfeld has styled some of the world's best known women in the piece to celebrate the timeless quality which Coco captured back in 1926 (when her first tweed jacket was produced). Lagerfeld commented that "Transformation is the secret of survival, but never change."; a cryptic, seemingly nonsensical utterance which actually seems to make perfect sense when applied to this little bit of fashion history.

Saskia de Brauw in  her Chanel tweed (image from Telegraph.co.uk/ V Magazine)

After leaving British Vogue this Summer, it was unclear what exactly Robin Derrick's next move could be. Well, it seems that Glenda Bailey, Editor of US Harper's Bazaar has enlisted him to help revive the title she has edited for the past ten years. We're all aware that the publishing industry is a tough place to be right now and it seems that Harper's is at the coal face, having seen 4.1% decrease in the number of ad pages being bought over the past year. So it makes perfect sense that Derrick be drafted in from a title which is doing pretty well at defying the decline.

Robin, back when he was Vogue through and through (image from vogue.co.uk)

Just as we've got through the SS12 shows, we are reminded once again of the Resort collections as the campaigns are revealed. I completely loved Vuitton's Resort collection (which was done in collaboration with Sofia Coppola) but I do find the campaign a bit disappointing. Although it's NICE it could have been AMAZING given the strong Gatsby/ thirties pyjama influences of the collection. The confusion over what a Resort collection actually is shows too. At Chanel and Prada, the models look like they're off to a Christmas party, while at Gucci and Vuitton it's High Summer, confused much?! In general, these images don't feel quite as exciting as those we see for the main collections, but that's just the spoilt fashion brat in me speaking- we can't have it all, can we?

A thirties look for Saskia de Brauw at Chanel

Karmen Pedaru for Gucci

Arizona Muse for Louis Vuitton

Why have one purse, when you can have six? Lea Seydoux/ Prada

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WANT TO BE THE FIRST TO WEAR SS12?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Nope, I'm sorry but Carine Roitfeld, Lisa Marie Fernandez and Anna Wintour (and more I'm sure) have beaten you to it. I know, I know, we thought fast fashion happened in Primark and Zara, not at Burberry and Givenchy. But think again because some of fashion's best connected are already wearing pieces which are probably warm off the models' backs. Are we jealous? Noooooo.

Lisa Marie Fernandez shows off her SS12 Pilotto in Paris (Image from graziadaily.co.uk)

One of my favourite shows of this season was Peter Pilotto and I thought I was safe in the knowledge that I had nine months to find a way to acquire a little piece of it. Swimwear designer Lisa Marie Fernandez had a head start on us all, earning her chance to premiere the prom dress by collaborating on the scuba ensembles which were standouts in the collection.

Peter Pilotto SS12

Anna Wintour arrived at the Louis Vuitton show on Wednesday morning in an African print trench coat from the Burberry SS12 show which she had taken a front row seat a mere two weeks earlier.

Wintour arriving at Vuitton (image from zimbio.com)

On the catwalk... Burberry SS12

But prize for the most astonishingly speedy turnaround goes to Carine Roitfeld who wore a variation on a number of looks from the Givenchy show the day after it took place.

Carine makes it real-life worthy with a silky blouse and shortened tails (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

On the catwalk...Givenchy SS12

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THE WEEK IN FASHION: AUGUST 29th-SEPTEMBER 2nd

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Hello there, fashion lovers and welcome once again to our weekly round-up of all the goings-on this week.

First up, this is practically ancient news now but Beyoncé is pregnant! She chose the VMA awards and a Dolce and Gabbana tuxedo to reveal the news. As her performance ended and she undid her jacket to show off her bump (encased in stretchy waistbanded trousers!), twitter records were broken with 8,900 tweets being posted per second.

Sequins and stretchy waitstband, oh the glamour (image from nymag.com)

While we're in congratulatory mood, we must mention the Venetian wedding of Sofia Coppola and Thomas Mars. The acclaimed director looked a vision of lilac loveliness in her Alaia dress- a lesson in offbeat bridal if ever there were one. 

Sofia Coppola with new husband Thomas Mars (Images from stylefrizz.com)

The cover of Dasha Zhukova's debut issue of Garage magazine (via The Guardian)

When launching a new magazine, one needs to get it talked about. Everyone knows that. However, in my memory no-one has done it quite like this before. The cover is a naked girl with a Damien Hirst butterfly sticker covering her parts.  "Peel slowly and see," reads the cover line. And when you do, there is her labia tattooed with a butterfly, its abdomen formed by her pudendal cleft," reported the Guardian today.

The Guardian continues: "Titled Butterfly Divided, it is one of a series of tattoos by famous artists (all men, sigh), including the Chapman Brothers and Jeff Koons, inked onto volunteers (Hirst's "canvas" is 23-year-old Londoner, Shauna Taylor). The works play on notions of who owns the art and what it's worth, while referencing tattooing's popularity reaching saturation point. Asked why she agreed to the tattoo, Taylor answered: "Not one single person can ever say they gave birth through a Damien Hirst piece of art. I can [if I ever give birth]." !!!!  Its not everyday you read a quote like that.

The real Wallis Simpson in the late 1930s

We tipped you off a little while ago about Wallis Simpson as a key style reference for FW11.Yesterday, Madonna's highly anticipated film exploring the life of the American socialite (played by Andrea Riseborough) had its premiere at the Venice Film Festival. While the film itself has received mixed reviews, the costumes, by Arianne Phillips, have been declared an indubitable success. Another very valid reason for a cinema trip is the appearence of James D'Arcy who cuts quite a dash as Edward. Madonna looked rather fab in her custom Vionnet gown, while Andrea was clearly so fed up of her Wallis look (close to the body, tailored, streamlined) that she decided to go for Princess-y froth in Dior couture. 

Andrea Riseborough in Dior (telegraph.co.uk)

Madonna in custom Vionnet with matchy sunnies. I love these colours (telegraph.co.uk)

As we gear up for the beginning of the Fashion Week season, we are happy to learn that Helmut Lang, purveyors of minimal luxe-grunge, are to show for the first time since 2007. Though we have to say, that just for minute there, we thought that the man himself Mr Helmut Lang, still one of the most influential designers that ever breathed despite the fact he retired to the Hamptons in 2005, was coming back to New York fashion week. That really would be something.

Anyway, the show will take place in New York on 10th September and will also be shown live on HelmutLang.com. In other New York Fashion Week related news, due to Hurricane Irene, Marc Jacobs has pushed back his show to 8.30pm on 15th September which is just hours before London kicks off. Not good for London Fashion Week at all. There are going to be some very jet-lagged fashion people zombie-ing about the first few days of London.

Helmut Lang Resort 2012 (Style.com)

Do you love Valentino? Do you love musicals? If the answer was yes to either of those then you will be happy to hear that there are plans for 'Valentino- The Musical', we kid you not! We thoroughly enjoyed the documentary, 'The Last Emperor' which followed the Italian design veteran in the lead-up to his retirement, but a musical? We are reserving judgement.

Valentino in publicity shots for The Last Emperor (Image from www.cbc.ca)

It's Friday and not so long since pay day, therefore there is no excuse not to pop into Topshop Oxford Circus to peruse Susie Lau's Edited selection which launches today. Her choices represent her personal highlights of Topshop's current offering and will be available for two weeks in the special Edited area of the store; a bit of a haven from the mad rush of frenzied shoppers. Topshop's Manchester store also has an Edited space so you can see Susie's picks if you're near there too. For an insight into her favourite books, music and some of the looks she has put together, take a look at Topshop's very own blog.

Susie Style Bubble modelling her Topshop Edited choices. Gorgeous! (Image courtesy of Topshop)

I'm currently on a bit of a roll with coffee table book buying, even though I don't have a coffee table.Anyway, Carine Roifeld's Irreverant is sure to  be an addition to the pile when it's released on October 18th. In the meantime, some teaser images have been released. It looks to us like this is an amalgamation of all Ms. Roitfeld's souvenirs and highlights from her time as Editor-in-Chief of French Vogue, an absolute treat for the those hungry for insider snippets from the closeted world of high fashion.

Dear Carine (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

Young Carine (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

 'The Great Gatsby' which is described by The Times on the back cover of my copy as 'a timeless evocation of the allure, corruption and carelessness of wealth', is having a bit of a moment. Kate Moss is known to be a great fan; her recent wedding took inspiration from the world depicted by F. Scott Fitzgerald. Next week, Baz Luhrmann will begin filming his version with a stellar cast including Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan, Tobey Maguire and, reportedly, Gemma Ward. No doubt it will be a beauty with Kate Moss first in line to watch.

Robert Redford and Mia Farrow in The Great Gatsby film in 1974

And finally, we are still loving the Lanvin film we shared with you earlier in the week. By the looks of Twitter, many of you are a bit addicted too. Well, this film, The Wanderer, shot for Dior Homme by Willy Vandeperre is the antithesis, but just as worthy of a look. It's a bit dark, very atmospheric and very cool.

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MODEL MOMENT: SASKIA DE BRAUW

Saskia de Brauw in her own words: ‘a sensitive, worrisome, strong and observant thinker’.

Every season, one girl stands out among the sea of new faces. And this time around, that face isn't that new at all - in fact, this is girl of the moment, Saskia de Brauw's second innings as a professional model. The hauntingly androgynous 29 year old (yep, that's 29) first started modelling aged 16 in Europe, before quitting and returning home to Amsterdam to study visual arts.

After graduating and making ends meet with waitressing, an old modelling pal convinced her to give fashion another go.On reflection, that was probably a pretty smart decision, given that de Brauw is currently enchanting the fashion world with her striking looks and equally fascinating personality (more on that below.)

Shot by Dancian for i:D

 Firstly, her star is currently burning bright in the world of fashion editorials. She is a muse of Nicholas Ghesquiere and a close friend of Riccardo Tisci (they bonded over their mutual love of art). Carine Roitfeld selected de Brauw for her last ever cover at Vogue Paris - and roped in Mert & Marcus to produce the surprising camera-still shot.

Because, y'know, one Vogue cover a month isn't enough for some people, de Brauw also appeared on the cover of the Vogue Italia March edition - shot by Steven Meisel, and looking completely different. This girl is something of a chameleon.

Then of course, there are the stunning campaigns; she looks incredibly strong in the shots for Givenchy SS11, and replaced Lara Stone as the face of Eres.

Shot by Mert and Marcus

Shot by Viviane Sassen

Saskia stands out; not only for her statuesque, unusual appearance, but because this model has an awful lot going on upstairs. Her creativity and knowledge of the visual arts informs her work, and when she is not posing for the world's greatest photographers, she is producing artwork with her documentary photographer boyfriend, Vincent van de Wijngaard. The Cut blog asked her to describe her artistic process:

"I do not work in one particular medium. My work is in its base conceptual. I use different media depending on the project I work on. My work is about the way people move through space and the traces they leave behind while doing so. These traces are often invisible. I like to make these invisible traces visible through my work. [For example] I did a work on daily routes of people in a certain neighborhood. I was curious where random people's routes would cross. These were invisible encounters to me. Everyday they would meet without knowing. I wanted to show these meetings to other people as well"


She also writes a beautifully poetic blog, documenting her art, and observations of the people and cities her work exposes her to. A small snippet, referring to Café de la Mairie in Paris:

"People keep coming in and going out. Waiters wear their classical black and white outfits. Lovers kiss softly. A grandmother a daughter and a granddaughter enter the cafe. Outside the light is slowly disappearing and the streetlights appear. People outside are smoking cigarettes and are lit by a reddish light coming from the upper floor of the café.

We finish our glass of wine and decide to have dinner here tomorrow."

Read more at http://sdebrauw.blogspot.com/  and keep your eye on this lady; she's on course to be the face of the year.

Images: DNA models. iD, Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia, Givenchy, Eres

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