LONDON MENSWEAR DAY AW12: MATTHEW MILLER - iFASHION

(Josh interned with FEAL over London Fashion Week, and here are his final two Mens Fashion Week reviews)

Guest Post by Joshua Drew of Noir Official

Matthew Miller is a new name on the London menswear scene. The introduction of this Royal College of Art MA Graduate tothe schedule this year saw his first standalone show presented at the Portico Rooms of Somerset House.

Having previously presented as part of Fashion East, Miller has demonstrated his interest in combining technology with great menswear design. This season he fused the two in a collection entitled 'Expedition'. 

Matthew Miller AW12

 City Perforation work was one of the surfaces which inspired Miller's collection

iPhone QR barcodes were available to scanduring the show. When scanned we were able to retrace Miller’s steps around London. These codes took us to webpages showing the exact location of each individual print and the building, object or landscape it was taken from. Prints inspired by everyday surfaces that we might not usually give a second thought to weretransformed into eye-catching macs, single-breasted jackets and slim fittrousers.

Miller's combination of savvy digital tools and fashion is truly innovative. His interest in combining technology and design not only translated his ideas quite literally, but also interactively to the audience. The way that Miller embraces the opportunities offered by the likes of the iPhone shows a fresh attitude to showing fashion which moves with a phenomenon which influences every aspect of our lives. His example shows how fashion can take full advantage of up to the minute technology to enhance the experience of viewing a collection. 

Tree bark found in Hyde Park inspired single-breasted jackets and shirts. 

Surfaces such as concrete, bark, chip board (which Miller had spotted covering shop windows during the August riots) and eroding marble were all used to represent the textures of London. As an intrepid explorer, Miller’s man also needed some sturdy footwear. In collaboration with OliverSweeney, the London inspired prints were transferred onto boots.

Matthew Miller AW12

Matthew Miller still has room to grow, but the ambition this new London designer is showing in combining technology and functional fashion leaves me interested to know what direction he'll be taking next season. 

Add to Cart More Info

LONDON MENSWEAR DAY AW12: JAMES LONG, ALL IN THE DETAIL

Guest post by Joshua  Drew, from Noir

The finale at James Long AW12

After graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2007, James Long debuted his collection at MAN, a Topman sponsored platform, that same year. His own label has since gone from strength to strength and Long has become the first menswear designer to receive an award from Fashion Forward (a growing scheme funding selected new design talent in London).  He also has lucrative consultancy work with Versace. What’s most exciting, however, is how well James Long combines his creativity with a knowledge of what his customer wants (and needs). 

James Long AW12 (from catwalking.com)

James Long AW12 (from catwalking.com)

Inspired by surrealist film maker David Lynch and the scars excavated quarries leave on the face of the earth, Long demonstrated focus on detail through intricate and unusual embroidery for his AW12 offering. Collars were adorned with gold work by British embroidery company Hawthorne & Heaney and the final product proved just why James Long is credited for being innovative without forgetting the necessity for wearability. Garments weren't overly conceptual, and even if you can't quite see yourself in an embroidered shirt, the cut was undeniably sleek. Sartorial elements were taken and translated into a language that spoke clearly to a younger audience.

James Long AW12 (from catwalking.com)

Edward Burtynsky's photography on quarries. 

Outerwear came in the form of aviator jackets, some with quilted leather, others with shearling trims. But what really took my breath away this season was James Long’s knitwear. He has always been honest about his passion for creating great knits for men. The mix of gold thread with wool brought the excavated quarry inspiration into sharp focus. Every man should have a James Long jumper. The use of gold thread was minimal enough to speak to the man who appreciates detail, without alienating those for whom a full on gold jumper is a fashion leap too far. James Long may very well have his ideal man firmly in his head, but elements of his collections are opening up to not just one man, but many men. Personally, I would like one of everything please!

Add to Cart More Info

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN'S DAY: J.W ANDERSON AW12 - AN ISOLATED MAN

Note from Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Recent journalism graduate Joshua Drew has been interning with us at FEAL for the last fortnight, and in that time his flair and passion for menswear has been so infectious, I just had to assign him the task of covering Men's Fashion Day in London on Wednesday. So while I was in the recovery position following London Fashion Week, Mr. Drew hit town.

Guest Post for Fashion Editor at Large by Joshua Drew 

J.W Anderson fuelled the fire of menswear on Wednesday, and boy was it a scorcher!  As the first menswear designer to showcase his new collection, entitled ‘Chamber of Isolation’, the venue was claustrophobic to the backdrop of heavy industrial beats. A spooky start to a theatrical collection. Fitting considering Anderson’s background in theatre.

A fitting venue for a show entitled 'Chamber of Isolation' in the old Central St Martins building. 

If the music didn’t have you shaking in your boots then you were most certainly moonwalking, as footwear, in collaboration with Aldo Rise, came in white or black leather mixed with plaid wool. Trousers came in the form of flares, a trippy throwback to the 80s with zip detailing, a theme throughout menswear which we’re loving this season.

J.W Anderson AW12  (photos: catwalking.com)

“I keep asking myself, does menswear exist anymore?” said Anderson in typically rhetorical form backstage. “Everything seems so sartorial nowadays. Menswear is dry. It needs a certain awkwardness about it.” Anderson seemed like just the right candidate to shake things up a little. His gender bending designs steered far away from any sartorial references and instead injected quilted skirts over leather flares. Potentially not every man's dream wardrobe staple and not a new concept for Anderson. Yet it was his knitwear pieces with their rope detail embellishment which proved most wearable this season. You wouldn't have to be a typical Anderson man to pull off one of these statement items.

J.W Anderson AW12 (photo: catwalking.com)

Inspired by the idea of bad taste and good taste he certainly left his collection open to criticism.  His man was futuristic, moody and isolated. Yet Anderson, true to form, struck a confident and rebellious collection. Who doesn’t love a rebel? 

(Photo: Fashion Editor at Large)

Add to Cart More Info

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN'S DAY: CHRISTOPHER SHANNON AW12- AN EVERYDAY MAN

Guest post for Fashion Editor at Large by Joshua Drew

Christopher Shannon AW12 (photo: catwalking.com)

Receiving the NEWGEN MEN sponsorship in just 2010 Christopher Shannon has propelled his label to new heights in only a matter of years. This Central Saint Martins graduate should be hanging up in every man’s wardrobe by next season, and you don’t even need to be a fashion frenzied animal to adorn a collection suited for you, me, them and us.

His collection shown Wednesday was inspired by Matthieu Kassovitz's gritty 1995 film La Haine, and Sinèad O’Connor. An unlikely blend that worked by making icons of key pieces in the Shannon wardrobe, namely easy to wear pieces such as Harrington jackets with beautiful paisley detail, parkas with monochromatic prints and great bomber jackets with pristine white lace back panels. 

Key looks from Shannon's AW12 collection (photos: catwalking.com)

“ The boys modelling in the show were actually street cast, and when I saw them in my clothes I thought to myself, 'wow, the Christopher Shannon man is real, and accessible',” the designer told me post show. I couldn’t agree with him more. These clothes were not catwalky crap, it was proper gear for guys. The new season demonstrated sports aesthetic with functional cuts and large zip detailing. Shannon pieces were wearable, functional and most of all perfect for any man who simply appreciates good technique, impeccable design and continuous consistency. Here's to next season Shannon! 

This outrageously interesting backpack is at the top of my menswear wish list.

Add to Cart More Info

LONDON FASHION WEEK: BETWEEN THE SEAMS WITH MERCEDES-BENZ

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Mercedes-Benz is one of the official sponsors of London Fashion week, and as such convey many of the major editors, buyers models and celebrities around the city from show to show in fabulous cars. In that capacity they make fashion week do-able, and we love them for it. Mercedes-Benz also have a fashion website created especially to share the stories of all the people they work with in London, me amongst them, over the five days of the shows. In my case, I literally share my stories from this blog, so most of the London Fashion Week previews published here are over on voicesoffashion.co.uk too.  My  favourite aspect of the experience over on Voices of Fashion are the slick videos; one for each day of the shows. We get to find out a day in the life of a fashion buyer, thanks to the amazing Ruth Chapman, owner of Matches - sheesh - and I thought we journalists had it hard. Not to mention the HILARIOUS films by my friend Brix Smith Start with her little black leggy pug, Gladys. I have been laughing out loud at the video of Brix taking the dogs for their fashion week outfits at Mulberry.

The first film is funny and cute. The second one is super-informative. I'm in the second one for about five seconds btw, though I'm not sure I made much sense, though. I'll leave you with these, and get back to creating our summaries of fashion week, the models of the week is done (see below), to the most popular music played and of course what is trending..

Gladys In The Hood

Day Four of Fashion Week, including Tony Berardi, Christopher Kane, Matches, me, Brix and Tim Blanks

Add to Cart More Info

TRENDING: BLOW-UP AT LONDON FASHION WEEK AUTUMN WINTER 2012

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large


One of the most interesting trends to emerge so far is the one for designers giving a high fashion spin to the humble Puffa or padded jacket. So far I am torn between choosing from these four.

J. W Anderson AW12 

Christopher Kane AW12

Peter Pilotto AW12 

Mulberry AW12

Add to Cart More Info

LONDON FASHION WEEK AW12: SIMONE ROCHA - A STAR IS BORN?

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Forgive me for that question mark. I am not one to take leave of my senses and start pronouncing a young designer a star on her first official outing as part of the NEWGEN programme at London Fashion Week. However judging by the concise, creative and inspiring outing from the Irish designer Simone Rocha this morning, I couldn't resist the question itself.

As as group of us bustled backstage to congratulate Simone following her show this morning, I overheard buyers from influential London store Dover Street Market saying: "That was good". "No, that wasn't just good, that was magic." I am inclined to agree. It is not easy to follow in the footsteps of a famous father, but St Martins MA graduate Simone Rocha has done just that.  In case you haven't made the connection yet, her Dad is John Rocha.

Simone Rocha's AW12 collection, shown today. (Photos: catwalking.com) 

From sweet collars, child-like shift dresses, and knitted tiaras to chunky brogues with thick wooden soles sandwiching glinting strips of neon, and oversized coats, this collection was a sweet boy/girl clash.

"It was inspired by Ireland," Simone told me post show, between being congratulated and all round mobbed by well wishers. "It started after I found images of a feral tribe from Papua New Guinea called 'New Ireland'  - thats where the densely tufted wools, wild mohair and animal print grey fabrics came from. I was also looking at 1930s photographs of Dublin's street children. The girls in tiny shrunken dresses and the boys in oversized pieces."

I love that she referenced Irish horse racing by getting the model's fringes swept to one side, and plaited through at the back. Apparently when done to a horse, this is called a "Connemara Forelock".

Above are my favourite looks. Personal order for the silver jacket, oversized coat and cream shift dress coming up!

You'll be seeing a lot more of this 25 year old in the seasons to come.

Add to Cart More Info

WELCOME TO LFW AW12

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Yesterday we enjoyed at gentle introduction to the AW12 shows and got to know our lovely driver José who has been conjured up for us by the lovely people at Mercedes- Benz. He'll be helping us dash between as many shows as possible. On Saturday the fun really starts; we wouldn't want you to miss out so, just like last season, you can watch loads of the shows on a live stream, just by clicking 'play' on the video below- click here to plan your viewing. Of course, we'll be keeping you updated with all the latest fashion week news here and on our twitters- @fashedatlarge and @BethanHolt. Have a fabulous fashion week!

Add to Cart More Info

A SNEAK PEAK AT MANUELA DACK AW12

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Manuela Dack is a woman on a mission, with a clear vision carrying her label- which she began after graduating from Middlesex in 2010- from the rack of beautifully crafted pieces which represented her SS12 collection towards a brand offering everything from bespoke commissions to jewellery and small leather pieces. Her lady likes classic, beautiful fashion, with a contemporary edge which Manuela seems to be nailing fast. 

Manuela at her studio

I first met Manuela at the SS12 Vauxhall Fashion Scout, back in September. I was immediately taken with her soft colours and beading details which all seemed very accomplished for a label which was only on its second collection. I wasn’t surprised that The Shop at Bluebird decided to buy up lots of the light as air column dresses in fresh ivory and mint green.  Earlier this week, I went to visit the 25 year-old at her East London studio to take a sneak peek at the AW12 collection which went on show today at the VFS exhibition.

One of the most popular SS12 pieces, a stingray leather print dress £820 at Avenue 32

Grey sweatshirt and wool skirt from Manuela Dack AW12

Navy tee with foil print, inspired by wood carvings

 Manuela’s designs have always been influenced by her childhood growing up in the Cayman Islands (see the stingray dress, above), as well as her family’s interest in interior design.  However, for an Autumn/ Winter collection, incorporating those elements from warmer climes is perhaps not such a straightforward task. One of the stand out pieces is a short suede dress. A panel of suede, laser cut into an  intricate pattern and backed by bright cyan blue and orange Batik fabric runs down the front. It’s sexy for sure, but also a clever way to incorporate the more summer-orientated elements of Manuela’s references into an A/W collection.

The skirt made using the same techniques and Manuela's signature stepped up hem

The AW12 mood boards

 I also visited Manuela just before Christmas. Then, she showed me lots of images of wood carvings which she’d been looking at.  I get the sense that Manuela's obsession with interiors and furniture might eventually lead her to becoming a complete lifestyle brand.

For now, those mood boards have developed into the laser cut effect which appears throughout the collection, mostly on suede skirts and dresses, but also on a grey sweatshirt where the jersey cut out has been backed with chiffon to create a luxe-sport effect.  This sits alongside another  beautifully cut grey sweatshirt- both are a new foray into a more casual aesthetic.

One of the collection's two sweatshirts

Manuela comments that the whole collection has ‘the same elements as Spring’ but it’s ‘stricter, more like a uniform with lots of angles and layering’. Stepped- up hems on skirts and dresses are becoming a signature of Manuela’s work.  As well as the Batik, foil effect leather which twinkles through the carved panels makes an appearance.

Christina Smith shooting the AW12 look book 

When you speak to Manuela, you can’t help but be excited about where her label is going.  She already has a store on Avenue 32, but she is also planning to have her own e-commerce store where her fans can pick up jewellery, scarves and leather goods which she is currently developing.  She already does belts which she tells me are selling really well. For AW12, there is one crafted from thermocromatic leather so that it changes colour as you touch it.

Manuela's belts

Like many designers Manuela also notes that “Made in Britain’ is a key appeal of her clothes. After noting that is was the more expensive pieces of her collection which sold best, Manuela began to realise that she was tapping into a market which wanted a unique, keep forever investment piece. To that end, she will begin offering a bespoke service where clients can use the look book as a ‘menu’ for their orders, perhaps changing a colour/ fabric/ length here and there as they like.

There's a lot going for on for Manuela. Ultimately though, she is adamant that anything she does, she must be do ‘really, really well’.  This woman is a perfectionist, and nowhere is that more clear than in her beautiful clothes.

If you want to take a closer look at Manuela's AW12 collection, you can visit here at The Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue, on until Wednesday, at Freemasons’ Hall, 60, Great Queen Street, WC2B 5AZ. Alternatively, she’ll be at the VFS Paris showrooms from Thursday March 1st to Tuesday March 6th at 18, Rue de 4 Fils, 75003.

Add to Cart More Info

HURRAH TO ANOTHER TEN YEARS OF TOPSHOP AND NEWGEN!

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Not only is today the first week of London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter '12 but it also marks the tenth anniversary of Topshop's sponsorship of the NEWGEN scheme. This morning, the fashion world's collective heart was in its mouth as Sir Phillip Green announced that 'the ten year sponsorship has come to an end'. Surely not? However, in the next breath the Arcadia boss confirmed that the partnership would continue for the next decade- what a great start to London Fashion Week!

Topshop have made a timeline of their Newgen sponsorship at topshop.com

Topshop's sponsorship will not just be about catwalk shows. The high street giant will also be working with the British Fashion Council and the government to look at ways to grow British manufacture. Over the past three years, there have been signs that a revival is beginning to take place.  The BFC's 'Future of Fashion' strategy claims that 'where gaps exist, action must be taken to fill them, for example through carefully designed apprenticeship programmes'. Furthermore, 'our fashion education system needs to be marching in step with the needs of our fashion industry'. Phillip Green is clearly dedicated to this cause; 'we need as much focus on the new generation of production talent as there has recently been on new design talent'.

This is all about taking the incredible leaps which British fashion has made in recent years and consolidating the benefits it's already reaping. London can now keep its best designers at its own fashion week rather than losing them to Paris, Milan and New York. So, why not MAKE the clothes here too, rather than losing the business to other economies just because they're better equipped to cope with the demand?

To celebrate ten years of NEWGEN, Topshop teamed up with SHOWstudio to create a film starring Karlie Kloss. Kate Phelan, who recently joined as Topshop's Creative Director after twenty years at Vogue, and Nick Knight collaborated on this brilliant showcase of work by designers who've come through NEWGEN in the past decade. It's an inspiring reminder of all the designers London is proud to call its own...

Add to Cart More Info