Lace is nothing new on our fashion radar, in fact it is rarely off the agenda. For next Spring/Summer, there is a particular sort of lace which we have been seeing again and again on the catwalks. Let me introduce you to GUIPURE. This is a chunkier lace than the flippety, delicate pieces we might be used to. The technique for creating it is thought to originate from darning onto fishing net, which will give you some idea of the sturdier nature of this lace in comparison to, for example, a chantilly. The word guipure means a thick cord over which thread is twisted; guiper can mean 'to wrap' en francais.
Thakoon SS12
Throughout New York and London, we heard the word guipure enough times for it to stick. And then Miuccia Prada used it as an overlay throughout her collection. This cements guipure's status as a key texture for SS12. It is also highly versatile- it can be used as a trim (as on hems at Clements Ribeiro), an overlay (see Thakoon and Prada) or in an entire garment (see the Preen pencil skirt below). We've also seen designers (like Clements Ribeiro's dress below) take the guipure lace pattern and print it onto garments. This achieves the same balance of prettiness and chunkiness with the fussiness of dealing with the lace itself. So, there is clearly no one way to work your guipure- we're excited to see its many manifestations next Spring/ Summer.
Clements Ribeiro SS12
Prada SS12
Prada SS12
Preen SS12
I cannot confirm that this IS guipure but it looks a lot like it to me, trapped between layers at Simone Rocha SS12
I've just got back from the Preen presentation and am in love. You'll know from my post the other day that Preen was mine (and as sarah Mower told the Fash Ed yesterdays, her) highlight of NYFW so it felt like a real privilege to be able to view the collection up close this morning.
I also spoke to Justin Thornton, designer at Preen alongside Thea Bregazzi. I had seen that the collection was inspired by Virgina Woolf but I knew that this was no straightforward copy of Virginia's 'look' as that would have involved drab dresses and dull colours. Thornton told me that Woolf's seminal novel Orlando, which charts the adventures of the epnonymous protagonist as he (then she) lives through a number of times and places (that is a very crude synopsis!) was the central starting point. Ultimately it was the element of reincarnation which the Preen team took as their spin on the Virgina Woolf theme.
Frills and peplums were subtley pretty
Virginia Woolf circa 2012
Lots of great tailoring underpinned this collection - and excuse me, how great is this shade of yellow?
Thus, this collection brings Woolf into SS12 so that this does not look like another rehash of the 20s and 30s which really, with that theme it could so easily have been. Instead it feels precisely of the moment with details which reflect those historical references; the lemon shade which is accented throughout came from a recurring reference to this colour from the botanical writings of the time, the frills at the wrists reflect the fact that Woolf would always have a handkerchief tucked up her sleeve.
Frills for hankies
The botany theme is also reflected in the digitised prints which were created from an intial scan of a peony. There is also an enlarged lace print which came from a contemporary sample. I also noticed that there were lots of back details in the collection, particularly cut-out shapes or alternate colours and fabrics- my favourite example of this is the white dress with fuschia chiffon pleating on the back.
Bloomsbury print- ladylike but then sexy with a midriff- perfect combination
Stunning back detail
Thornton told me that a collection which is made up of quite simple silhouettes, as this one is, lends itself to transforming the look from front to back. Midriff and back baring feel very modern he commented- a sentiment which many designers are picking up on and so interesting to see the varying interpretations.This is a collection full of favourites... I couldn't choose one piece.
The sequins were originally going to tie in with the graphic element of the digitised print but it was then decided to make them more scattered for a contrasting effect. The work was done by hand in India.
This guipere lace top is cut out at the back, and lined in fluror pink as you can see in the shot above. From prim to modern sexy in one about turn.
New York Fashion week will end tomorrow with the much anticipated Marc Jacobs show- always looked forward to of course but an extra frisson this season given the intense speculation that the designer will soon be making a move from Vuitton to Dior. Meanwhile, the FashEd and I are busily preparing for the beginning of London's turn on the SS12 merry-go- around. I am particularly excited given this is the first time that I am in some way a real part of the event which I have long read about and dreamt of attending. As somewhat of an aside, I would thoroughly recommend to any readers in that same position I was in just a few months ago (or any reader really) to read Lisa Armstrong's account of her journey to becoming a Fashion Editor. Even the Editors at the very top of their game began blagging their way into shows and adoring the industry they now play a pivotal role in from afar.
So what's been going on at NYFW? Well, there have, apparently, been clothes as well as pregnant pop mega stars and newborn Beckham babies but who'd have known? The clothes are what we here at FEAL want to share with you now. In the coming weeks and months we'll be sharing a tighter edit of the trends which emerge from the shows. But now, in the midst of things, I have picked some looks which jumped out at me.
Narciso Rodriguez: We can already be quite certain that a dropped waist will be an important silhouette. The dress below gives this normally straight and stark detail a modern fluidity. Cut on the bias and not quite at the usual dropped level, we recognise the reference but it's something new too. And the colours whisper 'Summer holiday'.
Narciso Rodriguez SS12
Theyskens' Theory was true to form in its easy wearability. The loose, deconstructed pocket trousers are a sure hit. I will dream tonight about those shiny versions, will someone invite me to a reptilean fancy dress party please? The jacket and the drop-waist dress make one think of the original purveyor of clothes women could live in, Mlle Chanel. But then we look to the feet and the models are being sent down the runway in these trillion inch heels. Rebecca Lowthorpe at Elle asked, via Twitter, that if Theyskens is so keen to dress women in clothes which they will be comfortable in, then why would he include such preposterously proportioned footwear? I can only think that they might add an element of legend and implausibility for a designer who doesn't want to become too literal- he perhaps wants his customers to feel there is an uncrossable canyon between what they see on the catwalk and what they buy and wear themselves. That show quality. But Theyskens was also playing with our minds a bit because his final look, the most heel-deserving of them all, was styled with worker boots. Maybe he just wants us to mix it up a bit more? Or maybe he thinks if Gaga can do it, why can't every other woman?
Theyskens Theory SS12
Theyskens Theory SS12
Theyskens Theory SS12
Theyskens Theory SS12
Alexander Wang SS12
Another trend which has been brewing since the last round of Spring/ Summer collections and now looks to have full- on exploded, is the printed suit/ top and trouser combo. My favourite thus far is Alexander Wang's for its mesh overlay, leather trim and flash of ab. The faded panel which bring the trousers to a high-waist is a genius twist which helps to break up the print bombardment. I am also fascinated by Wang's hats which look like a deconstructed version of the fun feline ones for Autumn/ Fall which the FashEd blogged about at the weekend. Either that or they look like bags on the models heads. The graphic suit is very Star Trek.
Alexander Wang SS12
Rodarte
Designers often cite obscure sculptors or little known architects among their inspirations, which I do love. It means fashion is always expanding my horizons and making me look at things I would quite possibly not have come across otherwise. HOWEVER, the Mulleavy sisters cited Sleeping Beauty and Vincent Van Gogh as their references for this collection. A zany combination but probably familiar to most of us without having to furiously google something we've never heard of before. And the clothes are a testament to their deft handling of this pairing. It was refreshing also to see that Rodarte is looking across all decades for its shapes, prints and embellishments. There is a lot of room in this collection for the woman's own idea of who she wants to be.
Rodarte
Sophie Theallet
As I read Meenal Mistry's synopsis of Sophie Theallet's show, I saw that Romy Schneider was one of Sophie's muses for this collection. This actress is important right now, given that Erdem used her as a key inspiration for his Resort offering. Theallet's collections was particularly influenced by La Piscine which Romy starred in alongside Alain Delon. I have provided a video as a taster. In case you don't speak French, she begins by saying she is only happy when she's with him and then, a few seconds later is telling him how annoying he is. Sexual tension is key and that backless dress is a key symbol of that. Romy is definitely somebody I will be writing more about at a later date. In the meantime, Sophie's clothes are rather lovely don't you think?
Sophie Theallet
And finally, Preen. This is by far my favourite so far. The colours make my mouth water. The peplums and frills take a silhouette which is familiar to a new level. It has sometimes been hard to imagine where print might go next with all the amazing work we have seen from the likes of Mary Kantrantzou and others. Bregazzi and Thornton have undoubtedly brought something very subtle but nevertheless new to the table which makes me go WOW, WOW, WOW!
Earlier in the week, we noticed two of our London based designers had been making an impact on the red carpets of international celebrity soirées, but little did we know that that was just a precursor to a brilliant week for British designers! When Mr and Mrs Obama touched down on British soil on Tuesday, they kicked off a celebration of some of the our brightest and best fashion talent. Indeed, from the second Michelle O stepped off Air Force One in this dazzling (next season) Preen number, we knew this was the start of something big. (Have we mentioned how much we love her? Whether shaking her thang in a school hall to get kids dancing, or being the coolest First Lady in the history of time, Michelle Obama officially rocks our world.)
Michelle Obama in Preen AW11, looking sensational.
The original catwalk look Preen AW11
Next up, SamCam continued to wave the flag for British fashion as she welcomed the Obamas to Number 10 in a beautiful - and borrowed - Peter Pilotto SS11 number (some of you will remember Paula Reed carrying out her royal fashion correspondent duty for the Beeb in this very same style). It's a fabulous dress, managing to be unusual and elegant at the same time.
Samantha Cameron in Peter Pilotto SS11
Peter Pilotto SS11
Of course, it wouldn't be a British fashion parade without the now uber-tanned K-Mid, freshly returned from her royal honeymoon and creating yet another high street mania in the 'Shola' dress from Reiss. No doubt the £175 number has already sold out, it looked great on her, with her waist still waspish post-wedding and the neutral colour set off her tan wonderfully.
K-Mid - Sorry, the Duchess of Cambridge, in the Reiss 'Shola' bandage dress. She's creating her own trend bubble.
Back at Number 10, SamCam showed that you can accessorise Jonathan Saunders with salad tongs as she served up potato salad at a barbecue for servicemen. The dress was the perfect choice for an almost-summer sunny afternoon.
That's one garden party we would have liked to have been at. Pass the ketchup!
Jonathan Saunders SS11
Finally, it was only a matter of time before one of the First Ladies busted out some McQueen, and Michelle Obama chose the suitably dramatic setting of Oxford University to wear her Sarah Burton-designed outfit.
All in all, British designers did us proud this week, and it was fantastic to see their incredible designs being worn by suitably inspiring people. Images: Daily Mail, Catwalking, Style.com, GettyAdd to CartMore Info
In our feverish excitement two days before London Fashion Week, we are getting to grips with the trends coming out of New York. While we edit the collections, it's becoming something of a tradition for us to 'try on' our favourite looks - so brace yourselves for the return of the Big Heads...
Here are my choices, which as per usual do not involve any trousers. I'm still on a quest to discover a pair that truly inspire me, maybe LFW will offer some better choices! Tune in tomorrow for the Fashion Editor's no doubt superb selection.
The ultimate date outfit: A stand out look from the incredible Marc Jacobs collection. The stunning details, perfect colour combinations, sheer sleeves and peter pan collar are so. flipping. hot!
Weekend romanticism courtesy of Rodarte. I can't imagine a more perfect dress to wear with wellies and a cardigan and go kick leaves in. It's a little bit 70's, a little bit country and western, and a lot Little House on the Prairie. 'Anne of Green Gables' hair plaits optional.
The pure fashion outfit, for fashion meetings, in fashionable cities, by Preen. The California Art and Crafts movement provided the inspiration for the lovely, colourful patterns, so this outfit gets bonus geeky points for an art reference. Part of me wants to frame it.
Rodarte - again! This collection was too brilliant to choose just one outfit from. I am making a wildcard prediction that dusky blue hues are going to be the colour of the season, and this high necked, delicate dress would be ideal for a special lunch party or for when you want to look particularly intriguing.
The red carpet dress by Monique Lhullier. It was love at first sight. I don't have many black tie events to attend this autumn, but if I did, this would be the dress I would like to wear. I will enjoy wearing it in my dreams.
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As you might expect, my choices are somewhat different to the Fashion Editor at Large!
David Koma: Caters to my inner ballerina. Simply graceful.
Givenchy: I've always been a leopard print fan, and this updates it for summer. Plus - white leopard print will always super trashy, in a wonderfully 80s way.
YSL: For when I'm feeling ladylike again, this sheer dress combines my favourite colour with just enough vintage styling.
Moschino Cheap and Chic: My ideal outfit for Fashion Junior-ing in.
Marc by Marc Jacobs: If I manage to go on holiday next year, I would like to look exactly like this, thanks.
Erdem: Absolutely dreamy, I would pretend I was the romantic heroine of a movie while wearing this.
Burberry Prorsum: Because you can't be girly all the time.
