It's the fashion book of the year from former French Vogue Editor Carine Roitfeld. This tome is full of fabulous photos, anecdotes and mementoes from her career thus far as well as intimate pictures with her family and friends. We think anybody who loves fashion would regret not having this close to hand.
'Fashion is all about happiness. It's fun. It's important. But it's not medicine' Donatella Versace
Lady Gaga's new video is so many things, on so many levels... but she does confirm that 'mint green is gonna be huge next season'... Her 13-minute long Marry The Night Video really needs a Sunday-like time void to be properly viewed.
It's a case of fashion mirroring life this week as we bring you news of births and deaths and, er, rebirths. It's been pretty dramatic actually.
Tom Ford SS12
American Vogue has just released the very first pictures of Tom Ford's SS12 collection (photographed by the multitalented Mr Ford himself). The former Gucci designer had decreed that the designs he showcased in a highly exclusive catwalk show should not be seen until now to avoid people becoming bored of them before they were available to buy. However, he suffered something of a backlash when fashion editors including The Guardian's Jess Cartner-Morley and Le Figaro's Virginie Mouzat wrote negative reviews not only of the clothes but also of that approach to showing. Sarah Mower's interview with Ford, which is posted beneath the pictures, reveals that Ford will revert to intimate showroom presentations for his next collection, emphasising the necessity to explain each look in detail. Furthermore, Ford claims that he designs in response to what his customers want, hence all the flounced mini dresses. Now that we can see for ourselves, what are your thoughst?
In happier news, it's time to congratulate Julia Restoin Roitfeld, daughter of Carine, who's expecting her first baby. Somehow we can't imagine Carine sitting down to knit booties or change a nappy quite yet but I think we can safely say that this could be the best dressed grandchild on the planet once it arrives in May. A day out with Grandma Roitfeld could involve anything from sitting FROW at fashion week to crawling around on a Chanel shoot... Lucky babes!
Julia with boyfriend and baby daddy, Robert Konjic (image from thevoguediaries.com)
Versace Couture SS09 (images from audreysworld.blogspot.com)
This week has, let's admit it, been rather dominated by the launch of Versace's collection for H&M. Just a couple of days before the brand went high street, it was announced that they would be swinging right back the other way in January with the re-introduction of a couture show. It's set to take place on January 23rd, the first day of the couture week. WWD points out that Versace has still been doing couture during its seven year absence from the schedule, opting to keep to more discreet appointments. I guess now that the world is buzzing with Versace frenzy, it's a good time to capitalise on keeping up the momentum. I can't imagine we'll see the queues we saw yesterday though!
Versace Couture SS09
Marc Jacobs' SS12 London press day had to be cancelled yesterday after the collection was stolen during its journey from Paris. Some have pointed the finger at counterfeiters who might be out to copy the collection. Or could it be a sneaky ploy by Dior HQ to harangue Jacobs into becoming their Head Designer? Whoever the culprits are, one thing's for sure- they will be easily identified by their translucent flapper dresses and general 'thirties meets future' vibe. No word of a reward for information as yet...
Missing: Have you seen this Marc Jacobs SS12? (Image from www.lloyd-evans.com)
The best ad campaigns are the ones which get everyone talking; Benetton have certainly achieved that this week with their latest set of images which depict world-famous figures kissing one another. If you can see the lighter side of the world's current woes then these are very entertaining. However, the Vatican were not in a humorous mood about the image which shows the Pope in embrace with Mohammed Ahmed al-Tayeb, an Egyptian Grand Sheik. The Guardian reports that Fr Federico Lombardi said: "We must express the firmest protest for this absolutely unacceptable use of the image of the Holy Father, manipulated and exploited in a publicity campaign with commercial ends. This shows a grave lack of respect for the pope, an offence to the feelings of believers, a clear demonstration of how publicity can violate the basic rules of respect for people by attracting attention with provocation." There is a deeper message to Benetton's images though; they support Unhate which is campaigning for a world free from hate culture, what's to object to about that?
The Pope with Mohammed Ahmed al-Tayeb
Angela Merkel and Nicholas Sarcozy get cosy (Images from dailymail.co.uk)
On Sunday, the surprise news emerged that Tamara Mellon would be leaving her role at Jimmy Choo, the company she has ushered from small time cobbler to one of the world's best known accessories brands. On Sunday evening, there was an impeccably timed advert for Jimmy Choo perfume during X Factor which starred Mellon herself. A firm reminder to those in the industry that she knows exactly how to play the game. Speculation that Mellon will be launching her own name brand before too long is already mounting. The fashion world's eyes are sure to be closely watching how Jimmy Choo and Tamara Mellon get on without one another. Lisa Armstrong is sure that we should expect plenty more from Mellon...
Mellon starring in Jimmy Choo's perfume campaign (image from nytimes.com)
In case you hadn't noticed, Lady Gaga has been in the UK this week and while she's here she has been taking advantage of the opportunity to showcase designs by some of London's finest. It must have been love at first sight for Gaga and the Roksanda Ilincic dress which she was seen out and about in just an hour after it was sent to her on Wednesday! She's also worn two outfits from Osman Yousefzada's SS12 collection and a look from Simone Rocha's first standalone collection which comprised a beautiful array of trapped lace pieces. It looks like Gaga has developed her look recently after parting from her long time stylist and collaborator Laurieann Gibson earlier this month. Here at FEAL, we're loving the Gaga London look, long may it continue!
Gaga in Simone Rocha (image from graziadaily.co.uk)
In Osman (image from telegraph.co.uk)
In Roksanda Ilincic (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Sample Sale Alert! Next Friday 25th November, Mawi jewellerswill be having a massive sample sale with up to 80% off usual prices. It'll be at MAWI STUDIO, 2, Nimrod Passage, London. N1 4BU from 9am to 8pm. Just in time for Christmas!
This necklace will be reduced from £810 to £300
This L'Wren Scott dress is $999 from $2145; in ££ that's about £500.... not bad. Gilt.com
Last night the FashEd had dinner with Kevin Ryan and Alexandra Wilkis Wilson the founder and co-founder of the hugely successful American flash sale site gilt.com at the Savoy. The occasion was the firm making its discounted stock available for UK and European shipping for the first time. Think of the site as TK Maxx online, but whereas TK Maxx run their shops with a less is more approach, Gilt.com is a slick package, and trying to make discounted luxury feel sexy and special.
Joining the site is free, and once a UK member you can log on every day at 5pm to gain access to 20 flash sales. What fun. Today’s bargains come from, among others, L’Wren Scott. You have to but in $$ but with the current exchange rate, this is a good thing! We would encourage you to join now at Gilt.com.
It may still be August, but our minds have firmly turned to Christmas this morning with the news that Lady Gaga is to take on Santa, opening her own Christmas pop-up shop, Gaga's Workshop, at Barney's in New York. And this is no half-hearted edit with Gaga's name simply stuck on as a marketing ploy. Oh no, the megastar and her close collaborator Nicola Formichetti have personally worked on a collection of gifts. These will be sold in the 'Gaga grotto' which will take over the entire fifth floor of the store. On top of that, there will be loads of products, from books to jewellery made from sweets, which Gaga will handpick for the space. Luckily for anyone not in NY, a selection of Gaga's gifts will be available online.
Ho Ho Ho, Ho Ho Ho (Image from www.LadyGaga.com)
This wouldn't be a Haus of Gaga project without some extravagant exhibitionism. In that spirit, the store's windows will all be dedicated to the collaboration. Barney's CEO Mark Lee told WWD that “Where the windows have been the centerpiece in the past, they will be a huge important part of the story, but now, we also bring the windows to life upstairs with the shopping experience.” There has not yet been any confirmation of a performance of some kind but wouldn't it be brilliant to have the real Gaga singing Christmas carols as you went about your last minute present shopping?
So what might we expect to find in Gaga's festive space? Well, we're gunning for a new take on the infamous meat dress, perhaps a turkey version. And some seasonally themed armpit hairdyes, green or red, or even gold. It would be great to see her supporting some young designers by getting their pieces into her space. She recently wore a rubber dress by Birmingham City University Fashion graduate Rebecca Short. Get on the case Nicola!
Gaga does graduate design, by Rebecca Short (Image from dailymail.co.uk)
The Gaga store might also sell gifts to inspire customers to explore their individuality. Lee told WWD that 'Holiday is about joy, sharing and inclusiveness, and to me, Gaga really represents all of that...Her platform is so much about positivity, individuality and universality in a very today way'' Might we see a Joe Calderone (Gaga's male alter-ego) wig or clothing collection?
Gaga as Joe, who has a bit of the Bob Dylan about him, don't you think? (Image from dailymail.co.uk)
Ultimately, we're sure that Lady Gaga will shock and surprise with her shop choices. There's no doubt that it will be THE retail experience of the Winter, with so much more than the products enticing customers in. We are pleased to hear that the Gaga Workshop will be donating 25% of its takings to charity. At the moment, we can only dream of what it might be like but if anyone can revolutionise Santa's grotto, and bring it, somehow, kicking and screaming into 2011, then the Lady for the task is Gaga.
We've had a snoop around to find all the most fabulous, non-red carpet pics from Monday's CFDAs... Enjoy!
Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs (WWD.com)- Wang's little face is ADORABLE!
Giovanna Battaglia from Derek's Blasberg's blog on HarpersBazaar.com
Chloe Sevigny and James Gardener A.KA SubversiveGlam (his twitpic)
AWW- LIz Tyler provides a shoulder to rest on for French Graffiti Artist Andre Saraiva (from wwd.com)
Kirsten Dunst and Phoebe Philo looking like twinnies (From Derek Blasberg again)
Mary-Kate Olsen with Olivier Theyskens (from wwd.com)
Cameron Silver, Michelle Harper and Rod Keenan all looking like they may have just come from the Mad Hatter's Tea Party- Fabulous! (via Silver's twitter feed)
The inimitable Hilary Alexander, dressed in her signature texture mix plus statement necklace, with her CFDA from telegraph.co.uk- Fash Ed At Large will be attanding her farewell party tomorrow.
And now for Her Musical Highness, LADY GAGA...
Before the event in her Mugler creation- pic from the Twitter feed of her trusted stylist, Nicola Formichetti.
Keeping it in the family- Gaga with her sister Natali and Formichetti (his tumblr image)- they're ravin'
A little later... a layer has been removed from Gaga's outfit to reveal... pretty much everything. Here she is with Terry Richardson (From Derek Blasberg)
Karolina Kurkova and Gaga: Fierce + colour co-ordination. Formichetti's twitter.
Gaga with Patti LaBelle at the after-party (Formichetti's Tumblr)
Our favourite image of the night- A megastar image from Formichetti's Tumblr
And the winners were...
Fashion Icon Award: Lady Gaga
Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Marc Jacobs
Eugenia Sheppard Media Award: Hilary Alexander
International Award: Phoebe Philo
Womenswear Designer of the Year: Proenza Schouler
Menswear Designer of the Year: Michael Bastian
Accessory Designer of the Year: Alexander Wang
Swarovski Award for Menswear: Robert Geller
Swarovski Award for Womenswear: Prabal Gurung
Swarovski Award for Accessory Design: Eddie Borgo
Founders Award: Hal Rubenstein
Board of Directors' Special Tribute: Arthur Elgort
Charity t-shirts are not always the coolest – harsh but true. However, everybody knows the place to go for cool t-shirts is Japanese wonderbrand Uniqlo. So it makes perfect sense that Uniqlo have teamed up with Vogue Nippon to help Save Japan. Unveiled at the brand’s AW11 press day yesterday, this latest t-shirt project is one we feel is worth investing in, not only for the cause but because they are very good T-shirts. The creatives behind the T-shirts include Queen Gaga and everyone’s favourite Uncle Karl. The 10 tee designs will be available in store from 25th June, and Uniqlo have pledged a donation of 100 million yen (approx £750,000) towards relief efforts in the areas most affected by March’s earthquake and Tsunami.
We were really impressed by the unique designs, the common thread in all the designs is the message of love, solidarity and hope. Some are more fashion-y others are more conservative. Weirdly, one of the coolest is by 80s icon Cyndi Lauper (LOVE her). It’s bright and cheery, embodying her inimitable personal style. It is perhaps a little known fact that Ms. Lauper is a huge fan of all things Japanese and visited Japan in the wake of the recent disaster.
Karl Lagerfeld’s design is somewhat of a departure from the formal Chanel aesthetic; he has fused the Japanese flag design with a sunny, happy landscape, and written the simple message ‘Love’. Meanwhile, Alber Elbaz has added a little Lanvin fun to proceedings with a his sweet personal message decorated with cute hearts.
UN goodwill ambassador Nicole Kidman’s expressed her inner Picasso with a beautiful design featuring an outreached hand offering love and support to Japan.
Blake Lively, Charlize Theron, and Orlando Bloom also leant their scribbles to the project, along with Victoria Beckham and Gwyneth Paltrow. Nicola Formichetti (who worked with Uniqlo pre-Gaga, and still styles their seasonal lookbook) posted a picture of himself wearing his customised Gaga for Uniqlo design.
The tees will be on sale from 25th June 2011 at £12.99 each.
It was a monumental Paris. A game-changer, at least in terms of the business of fashion. The last time there was more to report on than the customary new trends and fashion shows was in the late 90s and early 2000's when LVMH and Gucci Group were snapping up designers and brands for their respective conglomerates.
Who knows what will happen between now and September/October when the next runway shows take place. Will Riccardo be moved to Dior as is the word in all quarters? Is Haider Ackermann commercial enough for a move into Givenchy? Can John Galliano recover enough to be seen in public, and can he hope to resurrect his career? Is Sarah Burton designing the Royal wedding dress; or is she, as she protests, busy working on the McQueen brands' hugely significant Met Museum exhibiton, and dressing the attendees of the accompanying ball (three days after the wedding) instead? One thing is certain, right now the fashion industry is the perfect muse for a contemporary Shakespeare. The actual fashion isn't bad either. I'm working on that too. As is customary post the catwalk shows, for the next week I will be sitting in a darkened room with the fashion junior creating a trend report of the season before it all dissolves from my mind...
So welcome to my Paris fashion week tumble.
At the end of the Dior show, which was pretty but surreal after years of seeing the Galliano spectacle, atelier staff came out to take a bow in place of John Galliano. The team, in their white coats, stood and modestly clapped us the audience, while we clapped them. It was a masterful and emotional moment, reminding us - following a decade in fashion that championed fashion designers as stars - that while the creative talent of a fashion house can be disposable, the fashion house itself remains sacrosanct.
This little book is indispensable to me throughout Paris, telling me where to go, when, and who to see about what.
David Bowie taken from Phoebe Philo's inspiration book, placed on seats at the Celine show. Phoebe has hit her stride at Celine. Her show was solid.
Rather loved the Jean Paul Gaultier invitation, and the show was the first one of his I have loved in a long time..
The Jean Paul Gaultier show finale
The Givenchy invitation tickled me; this is a close-up of the Jaguar head featured on one side of the invite. The eyes reflect the silhouettes of a naked make and female. I wonder if this is the exact print Riccardo used in his collection? (below) On closer inspection I don't think so, more's the pity.
The Hakaan invitation was beautiful; this is going into a memory box for future use.
Below is the translation of Sidney Toledano's address from the beginning of the Dior show. While I respected and admire the manner in which the Dior brand reasserted its power, I still cannot help feeling sorry for John Galliano the man. I hope he will be forgiven for his outrageous conduct.
Ladies and Gentlemen,
Since its founding by Monsieur Dior, the House of Christian Dior has lived an extraordinary and wonderful story and has had the honor of embodying France’s image, and it’s values, all around the world. What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal for us all. It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be. Such statements are intolerable because of our collective duty to never forget the Holocaust and its victims, and because of the respect for human dignity that is owed to each person and to all peoples. These statements have deeply shocked and saddened all at Dior who give body and soul to their work, and it is particularly painful that they came from someone so admired for his remarkable creative talent. So now, more than ever, we must publicly re-commit ourselves to the values of the House of Dior.
Christian Dior founded his House in 1947.
His family had been ruined in the Crash of 1929 and his own beloved sister had been deported to Buchenwald. In the aftermath of the dark years of the war, he sought to free women, to give them back their sparkle and joyfulness.
Christian Dior’s values were those of excellence in all that he undertook, of elegance and of craftsmanship reflecting his unique talent. His mission was not only to make his clients – indeed all women – more beautiful, but also to make them happy, to help them dream. He saw himself as a magician who could give women confidence and make them ever more feminine, more sublime. He believed in the importance of respect and in the capacity of this fundamental value not only to bring out the beauty in women, but also bring out the best in all people.
His values, his genius and his legacy have contributed to enhancing France’s image and culture around the world for more than sixty years.
The values that Monsieur Dior taught us are unchanged today. Those values are carried on by the wonderful and diverse group of people within the House of Dior who devote all their talent and energy to achieving the ultimate in artisanship and femininity, respecting traditional skills and incorporating modern techniques.
The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the value and the vision of Monsieur Dior.
What you are going to see now is the result of the extraordinary, creative, and marvelous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people. Thank you.
Chanel AW11 by Karl Lagerfeld. Chanel I would wear.
More Chanel pour moi.
Roland Mouret always sends us a little note.
The show notes for Nina Ricci, one of the highlights of my Paris and one of my favourite catwalk looks. I am making it my business to profile Peter Copping, that is if he will let me after I compared his looks to an old photo of Monsieur Dior. He took it well though.
It was lovely for Phoebe Philo to share some of her visual inspiration with us. I can totally see how these images have inspired her work.
Stella McCartney is another designer sweet enough to add the personal touch to her fashion show notes. In her show Stella had a bit of an 80s Miyake, Alaia and Montana big-shoulder-small-waist moment that I have a feeling will be mighty influential in the coming months.
Stella McCartney AW11. Is Stella studying 80s Miyake and Claude Montana "State of Claude Montana" silhouettes? I like this a lot.
Chloe show notes, and a look from a show that can only be Chloe. I hope Hannah MacGibbon stays on there. She has her own very good thing going on.
The novelty show of the week was Nicola Formichetti's work for Thierry Mugler, the show began a week that was topped and tailed by fetish inspired shows - Louis Vuitton ended the week. (Givenchy was also rather fetish, as was Giles show in London.) By the end of Paris fashion week I was taking the fetish trend seriously.
Mulger by Nicola Formichetti
It also begs the question: why can Lady Gaga get away with smoking on a runway, and Kate Moss can't?
Lady Gaga smoking on the Mugler runway
Kate smoking on the Vuitton runway
Another still from Phoebe's book.
Finally, to my fashion-show music of the week; Chanel. Karl Lagerfeld seemed to take inspiration from the 1979 Cure track A Forest (my all-time favourite Cure number).
Come closer and see see into the trees find the girl while you can Come closer and see see into the dark just follow your eyes just follow your eyes
I hear her voice calling my name the sound is deep in the dark I hear her voice and start to run into the trees into the trees
into the trees
Suddenly I stop but i know it's too late I'm lost in a forest all alone The girl was never there it's always the same I'm running towards nothing again and again and again
The show setting felt like we were in the middle of a post-apocalyptic forest with the models stomping in their flat boots through scorched, smoking earth. The quality of the sound coming from the speakers was pretty awe-inspiring. Five days afer the show, the song is still going round in my head. The collection also had some great not-typically Chanel elements too - the butchy trousers, workman inspired boots and some fantastic tweed capes. I leave you with The Cure in 1979. Here, Robert Smith looks like Ben Affleck. Clearly his thick eye-liner and badly applied red lipstick wearing days were just around the corner.
Images: Modem, Celine (Artists Research Management and Anna Kustera Gallery), Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy, Modem, Hakaan, WWD, Chanel, Kenzo, Chanel, Roland Mouret, Chanel, Nina Ricci, Celine (Larry Fink, Sibylle Bergemann) Stella McCartney, Chloe, New York Times, Celine (The British Council), Christian Dior, Chanel All catwalk images: Chris Moore/Catwalking
